Planning my wedding - a Dickens Christmas Wedding!

Yes, we are definitely planning a wedding at Dickens on the Strand next year. After the wedding ceremony we saw this year, we made the final decision. It's very inexpensive, and how many other places offer bag pipers, Queen Victoria, and her Beefeaters at such a price? We were looking at TRF, but it's just so far away and inconvenient (never mind expensive - it's impossible to spend anything under $200 in one day!) so we decided on a venue that is still unique yet better priced and close by.

I'm thinking since I'll be having a lot of out-of-towners (never mind -staters!) I think this venue will be fun, creative, and very memorable. Also gives me a chance to make more costumes to add to my portfolio!

I've been looking at Civil War Re-enactment weddings online and Godey's and Peterson's fashion plates for ideas. Not thrilled with what brides have worn to Dickens in the past, it's very late Victorian (or Victorian-inspired) - might be perfect for them but for me I want to go all-out in regards to historical accuracy. I've never made a dress to match an exact fashion plate, so this should be fun.

First of all, I chose 1860-1865 for my time-frame. I have narrowed it down to December 1860, because there is one in Godey's 1860 book that I absolutely adore, and Harriet's has already made the pattern for it. (look for the Dianna, http://harriets.com/Ballgowns.htm ) She seems to make excellent patterns, and even e-mailed me examples of what the dress looks like finished in real-life. I never was one to like white (I get neurotic about dirt, especially outside) but I think this is it, if I can find wide enough and cheap enough lace, as it's going to take at least a full bolt to make I would imagine, with all those tiers!

I do however have other options. I could go with a colored travelling dress or best dress. Currently, for that I'm looking at

Simplicity 4510 (http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4510 )

Simplicity 9761 (http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=9761)

Also want to get a plain parasol and dress it up like one of these from Butterick 4955, probably view C. (http://www.butterick.com/item/B4955.htm?tab=costumes&page=2)

I definitely plan on having a veil with a crown of orange blossoms, just like Queen Victoria did and either get one already-made on Ebay or make one myself from a kit from http://www.lacis.com/catalog/catalog.html .

And, I already have the flower girl/ring bearer dresses (yes dresses - I have 2 little nieces and no nephews!) so to double the cuteness factor I plan on using McCall's 5131 (http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5131.htm?tab=costumes&page=3 ) their only middle/upper class little girl's pattern from the correct era. Even includes a chemise and pantalets, although I think I'm going to use more lace on them than the pattern shows. And to top it all off, I already own the pattern in all sizes! I'm thinking red and green velvet or taffeta, since my theme is going to be Christmas.

Dickens pics

Here are some pics of my family and clients at Dickens this year:

And OK, I have bragging rights, my clients made it on the front page in color in the Galveston Daily News. He definitely caught a lot of people's eyes, since I've seen him in a number of other people's pics I found online recently!

Dickens and Christmas are finally over

OK, I think I can finally take a breath, because between Dickens and Christmas I need a break. Not sure if I'll get one though, as I have some potential clients for Galveston's Mardi Gras coming up soon.

I totally lost track of how much I ended up spending on my mom's outfit, as I like to budget, but I can say I still can get a rough idea of what I had to spend last-minute on trim that I needed. Looks like I easily spent at least $35 between lace and the black trim I needed, which luckily was on sale for 40 cents a yard at HL!

So for the grand total....well it looks like I'm missing the pricing for a few things, but I'm guessing $175-$200. Not bad for a blouse, coat, skirt, and bonnet, using all natural materials. Looking back on it, I'm actually impressed with the low price. But then, it doesn't include any of the underthings, since she didn't want them and she certainly did not want a hoop skirt, even though I thought one would be fun and would perhaps give a better silouette. But I do think with the A-line bridal petticoat with the jacket did look slimming.

Usually I look very forward to Dickens, but this time I'm actually glad it's over. Now I can do some recreational sewing, like blankets for the local pet shelters (of which I have currently made 15, with a final goal of 30 by New Year's) and night gowns and pajamas for my nieces. It sure is fun to have a challenge, but every once in a while it's good to have something easy to do.

Please do check out my photos on Webshots. They include my clients and my family as well as many others (gotta get some great ideas for next year!!)

I was very glad that Christian, my fiance, enjoyed himself thoroughly in his full Victorian outfit, of which pieces were bought for a fair price at Peggy's Victorian Corner. (Yes, he said he wanted a costume 2 weeks in advance, when I already had projects going!) But this way, it was actually much cheaper and easier than making it myself, with the cravat, tie, and morning coat being retired rentals, and the cane, gloves, and hat new. He bought the dress shoes from Wal-Mart very inexpensively and already had the dress socks, slacks, and shirt from his current modern suit. Came out quite well, and he will have it for years to come.

However, a little travesty happened to my hem that Sunday. It got ripped. So I'm not sure if it's worth redoing or not, since it's kind of getting too small (even with the new corset) and the trim needs to be redone too. I guess I'll see what I'm going to do for next year later in the year. Might have to be retired completely, or semi-retired as a back-up outfit.

Also planning on redoing the hem on the outer petticoat. Had to pin one side up so it wouldn't show. So difficult to make something for yourself....it's so much easier when it's another person, although the ruffle and 5 pintucks and the fact that I made it 2 years ago probably doesn't help either...I have learned a lot since then.

My bonnet died in storage. It's completely flat. It survived 2 Dickens festivals but not a third. So I got my hair done by the Twisted Sisters. Pretty awesome job they did. Felt bad I didn't have a bonnet, but I sure did advertise for them since I didn't cover it at all. So I'll be making a better one for next year, especially since I know the ins and outs of bonnet contruction now.

Well it looks like a good excuse for a new outfit. However, I won't have to make any more underthings, unless I want to make a real tape-and-bone crinoline to be historically correct (which I might). Also thinking of making one more chemise and another pair of drawers, especially for the heat, since it is 2 days and not just one. (I just cannot imagine how they must have worn underwear for so many days back then....ew....)

Which brings me to the next post, which I will post separately since it's a slightly different subject and probably will be lengthy.

The Process of Making A Bonnet

Making a bonnet isn't easy. I remember frantically looking for a reasonably priced bonnet for my first year at Dickens and getting price sticker shock when I saw them running at $100-$200 for finished or even untrimmed bonnets. After spending 12 hours on this one, I now appreciate the work that goes into it, and feel that the price is technically under what it should be, if an artisan were to get paid by the hour for the work.

Of course, this was a very detailed bonnet. The one I ended making for myself 2 years ago really was a lot easier. But still. 12 hours on a bonnet. And, a Marathon non-stop session of like 4 hours yesterday. Plus more time after a break for Thanksgiving dinner. Soooo glad it's done!

OK, so if you have absolutely no idea what goes into making a bonnet, here it is:

1. Cut out the frame from buckram, a loosely-woven cotton fabric stiffened by glue (by the manufacturer, not you).

2. Either use a hot glue gun, fabric glue, or a sewing machine (which proved too difficult to me) to attach the millinery wire (19 gauge in this case - medium sized) to the outer rims of the hat.

4. Cut out the pattern from the main fabric and lining, making sure to mark any necessary lines to guide you for placing the trim. (Use tailor's chalk, because it rubs off - don't use a water-soluable pen because the bonnet CANNOT get wet!)

5. Cut notches in the round buckram back circle so that it will fit without gaping. Attach it to the hat.

6. Do the same with the outside circle of fabric.

7. Place the outer fabric on the outside, making sure that edges are tucked under so that no raw edges show.

8. Mark with tailor's chalk (it rubs off - you DON'T want to use a water-soluable pen because this CANNOT GET WET!) where you would like to put your trim if you want it differently from the pattern (if same, then you should already have copied from the pattern after you cut it out).

9. Place the trim (in this case, black braided gimp) over the lines, pinning where needed. Be sure that the pattern is going the same way for all.

10. Handsew trim to bonnet with matching thread for invisibility. Use fray check liberally on ends to ensure that the trim will not unravel.

11. Cut 4" wide black lace per McCall's instructions. Handsew both layers into place.

12. Place wide black ribbon where desired. Handsew in place.

13. To cover the handsewing, use soutache as a bit of covering-up embellishment. Sew not like a machine, but loop the stitches sideways since it is rounded.

14. Make double bows, as in McCall's directions. Make 4 of them.

15. Cut a length of ribbon like a snake's tongue on one end and sew the other end to one side of the bonnet for tying. Repeat for the other side. Place both bows over sewing, and other two bows per McCall's instructions, towards the back of the bonnet.

16. Pin lining to inside, making notches in the circle to make it fit. Pin and sew into place or glue in place.

One more week till Dickens!!!

Yikes, time has not been my friend recently. It took 12 hours, over the course of 3 days, to finish my mom's bonnet. Came out dang nice in the end, but it better be worth it. I love the navy blue silk dupioni I got from High Fashion Fabrics - it's exactly the color I wanted (and the color that was pictured/described on eBay....grrr....)

I was so happy I got to make the pilgrimage to High Fashion Fabrics in Houston. It's about 50 miles from home, so I call it a pilgrimage. They had EVERYTHING in EVERY COLOR. Even real silk dupioni, for $15/yard (average price). They even had an extensive variety of bridal lace, among other things, which cost upwards of $120 yard! Yikes!

Even got to pet a designer wool for $350/yard. No, I didn't forget to put the decimal anywhere. $350 a yard! I'd hate to see what the whole designer sheep costs!

visit to Peggy's Victorian Corner

This was both a blessing and a disappointment. I decided my fiance and I should go to see if we could save on anything like gloves, canes, top hat, etc. since Christian has been dragging his butt about it and we have less than 2 weeks to get his outfit together.



Well we found some good stuff at some really good prices, with the exception of the hat, but it is nice and we had problems fitting him for one so maybe it is good we didn't order him one online. He was thrilled with what she had, interestingly enough retired tuxedos from rental shops. He got a really nice black morning jacket with tails, as well as a blue vest and cravat, felt top hat, and cane.


Good place to get accessories, most for decent prices. However, I wasn't too thrilled with her "I don't do computers" attitude and also her cool reception. Not as friendly and outgoing as I always thought she would be, as I have looked forward to meeting her for years. She didn't seem to want to talk to me at all. I always enjoy meeting other costumers, so this was a surprise and great disappointment to me. :-(

Progress on Mom's blouse, dress

Weird way of constructing, and it's probably not period but it'll have to do. Not thrilled with the blouse pattern but the coat is turning out nice. I don't use zippers, and I didn't leave enough room for buttons after enlargening the pattern, so it looks like hooks and eyes are a must. Wish I could find some hook and eye tape for cheap. Found one on eBay but I'm running out of time, and Thanksgiving will slow down mail. Really like the lace and ribbon on the front, it came out nice and straight. Now I have to look for some lace for the sleeves, which adds a bit more detail for the outfit.

Got the 10(!) yards of navy wool twill, which is the same I used for Christian's medieval houp. It hangs well, isn't itchy, is a medium-weight, and costs less than $10 a yard!! I highly recommend Safa Fabric store on eBay, as the owner is very accomodating especially for large yardages. Looks like tomorrow I will be laying out the pattern and cutting it out - finally - 2 weeks before the Dickens festival!

color blind ebayers

I hate color blind ebayers. I ordered "twilight blue/black" silk dupioni, and I ended up getting purple by mistake. Then they sent me the "right" color for free, which ended up being a bright cerulean blue. Grrrrr....now I'm at a loss of what to use for my mom's bonnet, and the weeks left aren't getting any longer. Luckily I have a good friend who actually wants to go all over Creation (i.e. Houston metro area) to find some fabric she's looking for, so I'm gonna tag along with her next week as a shopping buddy.

I don't expect a perfect match, but a cerulean bright blue just doesn't go with navy. Hope everything turns out ok, because I am sooo excited about making this bonnet, because I love using hot glue guns! (Yes very period, right? Hey no one will know but me, my mom, and anyone who reads this - which probably won't be too many people!)

Looking....

Some of these trims are hard to find. Went to HL today and found only 2 types of black lace (no double edged - boo) and NO BLACK POLYESTER TAFFETA. This is what I HATE about Hobby Lobby. The have a huge floral dept that covers an equivalent of 2-3, and now the fabric department is not what is used to be, even though whenever I complain via e-mail they just BS me about it....grrr....they used to be my main supplier, but not so much anymore....bad enough I have to cough up $80 with shipping for 10 yards of navy wool on eBay...so it looks like eBay is my best friend now. Also looks like I might have to resort to going to Jo-Ann's.

Spent so far at HL and Wal-Mart:

10 yards of silky black ribbon - $2.50
2 spools (2 yards total) of 2" wide double edged eyelet lace - $5
10 yards of black gimp/flexible braid (all they had) - $4.40 @ 44 cents a yard!!!
black soutache (unknown amount) - $1.60 per roll, as is
white bias tape - $1.40

Also bought on eBay:

1 yard black/navy silk dupioni - $10 with shipping

Christian's thinking of Dickens, too

When we went to HL, my fiance always amuses himself with looking at the pattern books there. He found a pattern I guess I overlooked because I considered it more fantasy than period - the Willy Wonka/Jack the Ripper Simplicity pattern #4083. I'm not too thrilled with something so late and probably fantasy, but I guess it'll have to do. It's an easy vest pattern, and it's cheaper than buying one, which I was thinking of doing.

So we'll need for Vest View B or C (not quite sure yet):

Simplicity 4083 pattern: $9

View B
1 1/8 yd. taffeta, satin, or jacquard
2 3/8 yds. of black lining
14 5/8" wide buttons

View C
7/8 yd. taffeta, satin, or jacquard
2 1/8 yds. of black lining
14 5/8" wide buttons

Not sure what colors he's going to choose, but I'm thinking along the lines of blue or burgundy, unless he chooses a jacquard. Also not sure if he wants the faux shirt (dickey and faux sleeves) that come with the pattern, or if he'll settle with his modern white dress shirt.

He's also thinking of putting even more work on me, and spending more money to boot! He really wants the coat (view A or C - only difference it looks like is the extra button holes on the lapels on C).

List of what will be needed:

A Coat
3 1/8 yds. black broadcloth, velvet or wool
3 1" wide buttons


C Coat - 2 7/8 yds. black broadcloth, velvet or wool
5 1" wide buttons


I put together a list of what he needs using Excel. It's a great but hard-to-figure-out software program which works well for comparing prices of the same product at different stores. Found out from comparing that the Gentleman's Emporium ( www.gentlemansemporium.com ) has actually the best prices overall.

Looks like he will want:

top hat - $80
black gloves - $6.50
pocket watch and chain - $55 & up

We're planning on also getting a fancy cane from Peggy's Victorian Corner in Galveston. She has them for a mere $20 - a good deal.

He also needs a nice pair of lace-up dress shoes (which he can wear in modern times as well as Victorian) and I'll have to make him a simple satin cravat, too.

Looks like I have my work cut out for me this season :-P

progress already!

Just made a list of what I needed today, and actually got to go out and get some of it! Seems like HL has some good prices over Walmart for gimp and other stuff, so it looks like I'll be getting a good amount of the stuff I need at HL.

Spent so far:

10 yards of muslin for mock-ups (also good to keep on hand!): $12
3 yds. of ungathered beatiful 100% white cotton lace for cuffs and collar (looks hand-made!): $3
4 yds. of white cotton (couldn't specifically find batiste - boo!) $9
2 packages of lightweight boning (4 yds. total): $2.50
pattern: $9

On second thought, now that I know how much all this stuff will cost, I think I'll buy a smaller amount of millinery wire, and perhaps invest in a large roll later on in the year...

Dickens for me

Now I gotta think up what I want to add to my outfit this year... I got a beautiful black Battenburg lace fan and matching parasol last year, and now that I have those I decided to add a cameo to my outfit. I just bought it from www.flutterbees.com . It was only $10 - the best price I could find online (OK why do other repros cost so much???) I was also delighted to find that she sells hand-made lilac, rose, and honeysuckle soaps as well! I was very happy with the ordering process of her online store because she actually listed UP FRONT how much shipping costs, and she is VERY reasonable.

Also thinking of making some white flannel pantalets, since last year it was CHILLY. (hey you try wearing a hoop skirt with the wind blowing and see how cold you get!)

Next week I'm definitely planning on buying the corset kit from www.corsetmaking.com because the kit is much cheaper than buying everything separately, and I won't have to shop around anymore. The kit I want is Laughing Moon's Silverado, which offers large cup sizes for the well-endowed lady. Read a lot of good things about it online from different costume-makers. I just hope this corset helps me fit better in my jacket, as last year it just barely fit with the cheap corset...

Would love to buy some really cute period-correct black leather button-up shoes, but looks like it's definitely not happening this year. Someday I'd like to get them though from the sutler www.riverjunction.com .

Also might get some wider black satin ribbon (and this time with wire) as it might keep my bonnet on better and look better, too.

If I have any money left over (haha) I also plan to get some better stockings, from www.riverjunction.com too. The ones I got I think were from www.blockaderunner.com , and they just couldn't stay up worth a darn until I made garters by myself (which they could've told me they needed them. They came with a bit of elastic in them but it got pulled easily out).

hm....Dickens on the Strand

Yikes, almost a month until Dickens! I've been so caught up with TRF, that I totally didn't see it coming! Time to plan for my mom's 1860's dress and jacket, as well as bonnet. (This will be her big Christmas present this year!)

So...here's a checklist of what I need:

Bonnet:

McCall's pattern 5169 (view A) - already got it!
60 yards of millinery wire from eBay - $30 (will come in handy for future hats, too)
1 yd. dark blue silk dupioni from eBay - $10
2 1/2 yds. of 4" wide black single-edged scalloped lace - $5
6 yds. of 2 1/4" wide black ribbon - $5
1 3/4 yds. of 2 1/2" black wire-edged ribbon - $3
1 3/4 yds. of Soutache - $2

Dress:

Simplicity pattern 4900 (view A with jacket)
skirt and jacket: 10 yards of navy blue wool (twill) from eBay - $75
blouse and lining: 3 yards white batiste - $5
jacket lining: 3 1/4 yd. muslin - $5
neck and cuffs: 1 1/4 yd. of 1" wide pregathered white lace - $2
flat lace for blouse, sleeves: 4 3/8 yds. of white 1 1/4" wide
white eyelet for blouse, sleeves: 1 1/8" yd. of 3" wide double edge lace
lace for jacket: 7 1/2 yds. of 1" wide black lace - $12
trim for jacket: about 15 yds. of 1/2" gimp - $30
1 package of lightweight boning - $5
3 yd. strip of hooks and eyes - $5
1/2" wide single fold bias tape - $2
5 2" wide black frog closures - $10

one A-line white bridal petticoat from eBay - $25

Looks like it'll be a $200 dress, but I think it will be worth it :)

Double-award-winning professional costumer at TRF!

OK, I got some GREAT news today, so late because I was not able to make it to Pirate Weekend at TRF. I got a call from my clients and I was told that Captain Arrrhhdee won 2nd place (adult competition) and his daughter also scored 2nd place (children's) as well!!! (And this is the BIGGEST ren faire in the U.S.!!!) There was some good competition out there too! OK, I'm usually not the one to brag, but hey, this is the greatest honor that can be bestowed to a costumer, and it is quite a feather in my cap, for sure.

That black and gold frock coat was sure time-consuming, but was very much worth it.... :)

one of my pirate frock coats on eBay

Check out one of my pirate frock coats that is being sold on eBay, new condition:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200165834345&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123

It was made on request of my client because we had gotten so much extra fabric, I decided we had enough to make a whole another coat! And just barely, too!

Auction ends in 3 days!!!

My project box is empty...hooray...for now

Feels good to have an empty project box AND a fairly neat sewing corner for a week or so...but I think after that I'm going to get a bit antsy, as I like to keep busy, especially on days when I don't have work. Can't help but be a little excited at the thought of having finished a bunch of very large projects...I think a few small ones might be in order....and maybe some more organization boxes for thread too.

hmmm....Dickens Ball

Been contemplating on going to the Dickens Ball this year. The only thing is, it's another project (I kinda need a vacation after all this!) and it's been taking more time for research than I thought.

I really want a simple yet elegant 1862 cranberry/wine/dark red taffeta ballgown with black trim, black gloves, and fan (two of which I already own). The only thing is, it seems like light colors and white gloves and fans were much more popular, and the only dark red gowns I've found were from modern "reproduction" seamstresses on eBay and such. I really am a big fan of red, and would really like to use it. But I guess it'll have to go if I can't prove otherwise.

I also need a good corset before going, since the other cheap modern eBay one had to be worn with a bra for any amount of decent support. I found an awesome kit using a Laughing Moon Mercantile pattern (very good I hear for the well-endowed lady!) and the kit is only about $85 with s & h from www.corsetmaking.com . And, the best part about the Silverado design is that is is period appropriate and comes in a variety of large sizes. Sure beats $200 and up for someone else to make it, but then if it takes as much effort as I think it does, that might be a fair price.

Also found out what ladies wore for dancing shoes: leather ballet flats, with leather (not rubber) soles for twirling and such. No high heels. This is looking better and better, since I'm a wide width, and it is IMPOSSIBLE for me to find comfortable high heels. Also these are easy to find (I know Payless sells them) and fairly cheap (about $20-$30).

The main thing is talking my fiance into it.

Tickets are $90 a couple. And jeez, it doesn't even include dinner, just light refreshments.

He has a black Ralph Lauren suit to wear, but I'm not sure if everyone wears tuxes or whether people dress in regular suits. It says of course virtually nothing online, and no one evidently talks about it, since it's not very Googleable. I made a chart on Excel listing all the things he needs (e.g. cane, top hat, vest, gloves) and I'm not sure if we can swing so much in so little time, as Ren Faire season ends the day of the ball (Nov 30). Kinda wish Dickens could be pushed forward a week or so. These deadlines are so hard to make with everything going on in the fall.

So far, I've found out that The Gentleman's Emporium (www.gentlemansemporium.com ) has the best prices overall and the best variety for civilian men's costume, compared to Thickity Creek Sutlery (www.thickitycreek.com ) , River Junction Trade Company (www.riverjunction.com ) , and Fall Creek Sutlery (www.fcsutler.com).

Hope this all works out, because if this is the only thing I got for Christmas, I would be a very happy lady indeed...

Finished both pirate frock coats!!!

I am soooo sooo sooo happy that I finally finished my client's two pirate frock coats. It has been quite a long haul, since I was making them concurrently with other projects for TRF. That being said, they came out FANTASTIC!! I will post pics once they go to TRF this weekend because it is PIRATE WEEKEND!

Wish me (and them!) good luck in the costume contest....this could mean a big break for me if they win 1st or 2nd place...and they do have my business cards :)

OK, maybe I'm a little overly excited...but hey I'm the one who spent 7 hours on Tuesday finishing up the black and gold one. Those gold thread lines coming from the buttons took forever, but it was well worth it.

The other frock coat is from the extra fabric from the first comission I made, so it will be posted on eBay early next week.

Thinking of making a few for PirateCon this spring, since I could easily sell a few on eBay before then.

Thank you Disney for making POTC....

Pictures Posted on my Webshots

Photos taken of my finished costumes (as well as others I found intriguing) can be found on my Webshots:

http://community.webshots.com/user/craftgirl71683

Currently the albums include Dickens on the Strand and The Texas Renaissance Festival. I will be going to the faire again once it cools off (if it ever does!) and I will be sure to take more.

Christian and myself - completed!

All ready for the Faire!!!

I just got the belt that one of my clients made for Christian, and it looks fabulous. The black was a good choice, and he even tooled a straight line that boarders the belt as a little bit of detail. I just finished his chaperone (hat) 2 nights ago, and he loved it!!! (He wouldn't even take it off!)

These items also went well with his poulaines - so almost everything is either red, black, or blue. I'm really liking the color combo.

I made the mistake of thinking the hat could be stuffed with scraps of fabric (which took an hour to cut into strips) but it became much too heavy. Guess that's why they used fluffed wool or "the hair of dead women" as one source claimed! It's meant to be light, not heavy as I had thought - so light that he can put the liripipe over his shoulder and have the chaperone hanging off in the back, just like they did back then when they didn't feel like wearing it.

It was really easy to make (although the instructions on length were wrong in The Medieval Tailor's Assistant) so I had to make 2 tubes, one like 5 inches or so longer than the first because it was too small. It was an easy fix though, and well worth the effort.

Now all he needs is a sword...yes, he's exited about that one. We didn't order one online since he likes to see them in person and handle them first, as quality is a factor in arms and armor. So most likely he will be buying one as well as a scabbard and frog at the faire this weekend. Especially since swords are his undoing, and he never had an excuse to really have one till now.

I also have been working on mom's headdress, which was made from a large square of extra linen from my chemise. It turned out quite nicely, and the fillet works with it pinned on in 3 places. I'll take pics of her final outfit tomorrow.

I also bought a belt at Macy's for my kirtle. Not historically accurate, but it's brown and designer and was on sale! (Can't go too wrong with that one!) I decided I really needed one with the fan and the purse. Pinning them on would just look silly, and if I wanted the fan often, it would be inconvenient as well. Plus, I heard that belts were way overpriced at the faire, so I doubt I could afford one with all the money we'd be spending on food and any small things that would catch our eyes, as well as priceless entertainment, as I always throw something into the hat.

My mom's neighbor found out about my dilemma with the wire on my hennin - should I leave it as is or cover it with something white? (e.g. tape or paint) I was at a loss, since I DEFINITELY did not want to use paint. So he gave me some plasticy stretchy white non-stick tape used for plumbing of all things (ok, I am not a handyman so I forgot its name!) and it worked! Now they can't say that I'm the Roach Queen! The tape makes the "antennae" look a lot less noticeable! Although, I still wonder what the hell they did back then to make the wire less noticeable, but since absolutely no hennins of any type from that period exist today, there is no way of knowing, since artists tended to leave that detail out of their paintings.

Now I'm definitely happy that I chose the silk organza - I was kinda worried lately that it was too see-through.

All I have to do tomorrow is a "dress rehearsal" for mom, take some pictures, and hem Christian's sleeves (the pics we took that night were right after his final fitting).

I'm not all that thrilled with Period Pattern's sleeve pattern for the gown - I must've cut at least a foot off them, and Christian is no pint-sized guy - he's 5'8" and about 180 pounds!

Mom's outfit is almost complete!

OK, my mom's far from being the diamond-and-fur kind of lady, so she wanted something real simple, so I ended up making her a light chemise and a pink kirtle, at her request for simplicity. The chemise for her was a bit harder to make (OK I know my own body size better than anyone else's) but it ended up turning out OK. Although the sleeves are a bit bulky (might make them thinner) and the neckline was too wide, but at least the kirtle came out great so that she can still wear a bra for comfort and support. (She doesn't go all out in the historically accurate "from the skin out" thing like I like to do...)

The hat is still tentative. I'm using my two invaluable resources, MedCos and the book The Medieval Tailor's Assistant as guides to what my mom might want. Looks like we might either do a black cotton hood or a thick linen veil, since she doesn't want a hennin at all.

We also got Christian's faux suede poulaines in the mail from http://www.costumeshoes.com/ . They are comfortable and don't have a super-buffed sole like the $70 boots we had to return to Silvermane (duh! Supershine the sole so that he can slide his way to TRF! Crap made in India!) and they fit really well and don't have any problems unlike the boots with the seam too far up the foot of the boot. The only real "problem" is that they have hidden Velcro fasteners! I forgot to take pics, so I'll be sure to take some tomorrow.

Now I'm thinking of buying me a pair of women's brown poulaines from the same company, since you can't beat the price (about $40 with shipping) and they have all sizes and colors (brown and black) in stock. The only thing is, I won't be wearing them the first day because they won't be coming in the mail by then. Plus I'm going to have to cough up some more money for linen stockings from Historic Enterprises, because I just don't feel like making them after doing all this work. And, what's the point of wearing shoes with no stockings?

Also got in the mail today a 1 gig digital camera chip (thanks to my dad the techie), so now I'll be able to take over 1,000 photos every time we go to TRF!!!

A Pretty Pirate

I was recently sent pictures of one of my clients, for whom I made the waistcoat and breeches. Remind you of someone???

Please note: New e-mail Address

Unless "Comcastic" means "utter crap", then it was "Comcastic" that they made me change my e-mail. This is such a sacred thing that should not be touched, it's like a part of me.

OK, that being said, I'll stop whining like a baby and give you my new e-mail. But I think I did have a right to whine, considering the VERY DAY I GOT MY BUSINESS CARDS IN THE MAIL, lovely Comcast informed me about how they are changing e-mail adresses and getting rid of area ones like houston.rr.com.

So here it is: mavallas@comcast.net . And don't forget the "a."

So boo on Comcast. I would boycott it if I could, but it would be stupid. Like boycotting water. It's like that vital, because I don't know what I'd do without broadband Internet.

Houp, waistcoat, breeches, pouch, chaperone

Been working on Christian's houp today and finally got pics of how I did the pleating, as it was rather challenging to do. Luckily, I had help from The Medieval Tailor's Assistant and one side came out really nice (as pictured of course) but the other I need to redo I think because Christian was being all wiggly in his fitting - even though he's 25, he acts like he's minus the 5 when it comes to fittings : (

I think the buttons really give the breeches and waistcoat a more finished look. I especially like the simple gold buttons on the breeches. Even though the waistcoat had shank buttons, they were oddly a lot easier to sew on than on the ladies' frock coat. I guess the shanks ("stems") come in different sizes from short to tall, with the taller ones being the easiest to sew on.

Also this weekend I started making the frock coat from the extra fabric from my client's coat. It should be done by the first week of October (provided the client gives me the buttons on a timely basis) and I'm hoping it will be posted on eBay soon. It will be my eBay debut regarding my costumes!

Waiting on fabric to come in the mail for my other client's frock coat - I guess once his wife got hers, he couldn't help but be a bit jealous! So he's getting one too, same type of fabric, just with a different swirl pattern, gold on black. Should look very dashing and manly, and quite an upgrade from his first coat, which really wasn't too bad to start off with!

And, since my client is quite talented in the leather-making dept (which I try to stay away from - one mistake and it's ruined - unlike fabric!!!) so he made my fiance a really nice pouch to wear on the belt he's currently making. It's funny receiving something hand-made after making that very person home-made stuff in return! The pic isn't the best, but it's against the beautiful blue wool that his houp is made of. There is a dragon on the button - tried to capture it but I guess I was too close. My client even weathered it to make it look used! How cool is that??

Lastly, I went for a (hopefully) final run to HL yeserday and hope I have everything I need. I got my mom some pink calico solid for her kirtle, white cotton for her chemise, black for Christian's chaperone, and some more silver grommets and quilter's block, totalling about $45.

Learned what not to stuff a chaperone with: scrap fabric. It makes it too bulky and heavy, even when it was cut into strips. Boo. And I was trying to "think green" too. And he still jokes about stuffing it with the hair of dead women, as one source says ....hmmm.....haircut anyone? (I think I'll stick to poly stuffing, although real wool would be cool!)

Other commissioned projects I've been working on

I've been working on two garments for the same client; one is a waistcoat and one is a pair of breeches. The waistcoat is coming along very nicely, with a "homespun" cotton look in the front and a faux suede in the back. (Luckily she chose it for the back because making button holes wouldn't be easy - you can't make mistakes since faux suede is not a woven fabric.)

She wanted it to look like Elizabeth Swann's waistcoat, so I custom-made the back tabs and used some grommets I had left over from my kirtle. Funny style how the back is much shorter than the front. I would've thought it would've been even all around. The lining really made it look period, as I used a cheap muslin (for breathing purposes in the Texas heat!)

The breeches are comical - I never knew exactly how they were constructed until I made this pair. There are two tabs that are hooked together and the flap buttons over them. And to boot, they are baggy in the bottom, but I've heard that is historically accurate.

Arr! Pirates be happy with me work!

Here is the finished pirate frock coat which was tailored to her specifications, since no pattern I knew of had a dramatic swallow-tail hem, nor a band that went around the bottom of the garment. It did take some work to alter the pattern, but it was a good challenge; a challenge I really needed, as a lot of things I make are easy. I generally fit perfectly in a Simplicity/McCalls size and never wanted/needed to change a pattern so drastically before, so I'm not used to altering patterns.

It took 30 buttons, which really topped it off nicely. I thought it looked pretty nice as it was (not that I didn't want buttons) but the addition is just breathtaking. (Note how there are no buttonholes - the buttons function as weights to keep the stiff lapels down! Plus they look so darn good!)

The coat fit her perfectly without tailoring, as it has princess seams (which you can't really see in the pics but they're there) which are for "female allowances." The way men's patterns are shaped, I don't think it would have laid on her the same.

I promise to post more pics on my Webshots after we go to the TRF in October.

Making Progress

I got my silk organza in the mail and it works PERFECTLY for the veil. When they say "crisp," it means wirey! The stuff was so crisp that I had to mold the hem, and it didn't even need pinning, 2 hours later! The fabric stays up nicely, the way the ladies on MedCos claimed it would. Soooo glad I listened to them. I got 2 yards (more than enough for me and my mom) from Dharma Trading ( http://www.dharmatrading.com/ ) and they shipped it out a half hour after I ordered and sent me an automatic confirmation too! What an excellent company to do business with. Good prices, cheap and fast shipping, quality products. You cant ask more than that!

However, the next day was I also got Christian's blue wool (9 yards to be exact!) and I was very disappointed that the seller on eBay (a fabric store no doubt!) neglected to inform me that it was a gabardine, a thin, tightly woven twill from the 19th century and up. I was expecting, from the picture, that it was a flannel (basic) weave. It's definitely a quality wool - it feels so good that I was worried it WASN'T wool but upon really feeling it, it IS a teensy itchy. Since we paid $80 for the whole thing (with shipping) and because it is a really nice wool and we don't have a place to order wool from, and we don't have time to waste, I'm going to use it anyway. I don't think the twill will be so noticeable with the whole thing being pleated.

On the up side, I found some nice dark red calico solid at HL and got it for $7.50 for 2 1/2 yards; I also lucked out and got some bright red knit (95% cotton, 5% lycra) for $20. Either way, one of them should work, and if both work, then he'll have his choice of two.

I was able to also get some more black velvet, because a 1/2 yard just didn't cut it for the cuffs and collar like I thought. I spent probably only about $9, so it was a cheap but pretty trim. I'm thinking of making my mom a hennin like mine, only black taffeta with a different drape to the veil since she's not a big fan of butterfly hennins. I've got plenty of silk chiffon and buckram, so that's not a problem. The biggest expense will be the lightweight boning, which will cost about $8-10 for two packages.

I'm still waiting on the garment bag and necklace from Castle Garden Creations ( http://www.castlegardencreations.com/ ) and it's been almost 3 weeks since I placed my order. I sure hope I didn't waste my money there, as they have misplaced my order and still are figuring things out. I'm not impressed with their lack of communication either. If you want to do business with these people, I would advise you to order way in advance and only buy what you can't find elsewhere.

As for garments that are near completion, I'm almost done with the commissioned pirate breeches (just need the buttons) and mom's houp (got it hemmed yesterday, just need to make cuffs). Tomorrow I'll be working on the pirate waistcoat, which should be quick and easy. The button holes will probably take up the most time.

I ordered the Medieval Tailor's Assistant from amazon.com and it should be here any day now. I figured it might help me out with the chemise, which I'm having problems with, specifically the low neckline and the tightness of the sleeves where they meet the gown. I'm sure there's probably a real simple way of fixing it, but I just want to make sure that I know what I'm doing when I re-make it, as I have nearly ripped all the seams apart. Funny how the simplest of garments is the most difficult to make. No one carries a 15th century pattern, either for free or for a price. Seems to me that the 15th century is the stepchild of the Elizabethan era, since it seems to be forgotten compared to the latter. Too bad, because I think it has been a wonderful experience researching the period, and it's a period that is good and "cheap" for beginning-fair-goers-in-costumes like us.

The US Post office will never go out of business with people like me around

I've ordered a bunch of things online this weekend. Now that I am FINISHED with the lady's pirate frock coat (YAY! My first comission!) I can now turn back to focusing on a bunch of small concurrent projects.

I had a bunch of ladies on MedCos offer me advice on veling; it looked like either handkerchief linen (too expensive) or silk organza (we have a winner!) could do the job. I need a stiff ("crisp" as fabric sellers call it) fabric that will stand up, not go wimpy. Also has to be sheer enough so people can see the 400-500 faux pearls I sewed on, as it would a travesty if the fabric were too thick to see the pearls.

I think the silk organza will work well. I'm looking forward to working with silk, as I have never owned nor worked with something 100% silk before. Hopefully the hem will come out better than the faux chiffon, which kept slipping and was not so fun to work with.

I'm still waiting on the garment bag/necklace - ends up it took them over 2 weeks to ship. (grr....) I honestly thought it was lost in the mail, and was so upset about it I actually lost some sleep over it (I would REALLY hate to lose $65 worth of products I need, especially the much-needed garment bag!) Today I got an e-mail saying that she'll ship tomorrow, and since it's priority, it should come by the end of the week.

Using the automic buy option on eBay, I bought 9 yards of beautiful navy blue wool for Christian's gown. I've been doing research online about how to clean wool without shrinkage, and many buy up to 40% more (which we TOTALLY couldn't afford - is $70 not enough??) so when they pre-wash, it's about the right length. Give me a break, I'll just pay the price and dry-clean it and have it guaranteed to be not shrunken and I won't have to press it. It's not exactly period, but I don't go washing it in the nearest brook or stream either. Some other wool I bought for my mom is dry clean only, so I'm going to go by their rules.

Lastly, I ordered 250 business cards on www.giggleprint.com . I only had to pay $12 or so on priority shipping; the cards were free. They had a really nice tan textured background with black scrollwork as a boarder - something that was diverse and could be used for both TRF and Dickens. I'm going to see how good of a company they are and see how many are passed out each weekend, and then order more accordingly.

Other than the frock coat (which turned out SOOO well with the buttons! Pics will be posted later, I promise!) I've been working on my hennin. The buckram frame was starting to crunch from the weight of the wire, so I reinforced it with 2 more rows of lightweight boning. It worked, and the frame is sooo stiff now. There is still a wee bit of crunch, but nothing like what there was before. I took it off the headstand and stuffed it full of newspaper for support. Hopefully that will keep it good to go.

I also worked on the black velvet fillet. It was really too wide, but didn't know that till I had already made the thing. I had no directions; just a kind lady's advice on what it looked like. Now that I cut the excess, it works beautifully. Now if that silk organza works as it's supposed to, there should be no wardrobe malfunctions in that department! :)

I finished the basic part of my mom's dark red wool Burgundian gown. I got 1/2 yard of black velvet at HL this weekend, but I just found out I'll need more for the cuffs. Boo. I didn't want a whole lot extra, so I thought 1/2 would work. No such luck.

She doesn't want trim (e.g. velvet or fur) at the hem, so I'm trying to think how long I should make it...mine is a little on the long side, but the fur protects the hem. (I can always replace the fur if needed, as I bought more than enough.) This is a pretty easy project. I even made the shoulder seams wider when I was cutting the pattern, so she could wear a bra with it. The only problem was, the neckline now wasn't big enough to put her head through! However this was easily taken care of by seam ripping 6" into the back seam, hemming it, and placing some extra metal eyelets and lacing I had.

I've been mulling over ripping apart my whole chemise and recreating it. I hate the low collar line, and the gussets under the sleeves are too small so it's a tight fit. I also had to work on my kirtle, because the shoulder seam sat too high so I had to take the sleeves off and take off 3 inches each side to make it a good fit. I also relaced the kirtle, since I recently found out in Renaissance magazine that the typical criss-cross lacing is an American invention. Looking more closely at period works, they are right. And actually, the way I relaced it works BETTER than the American way. Silly Americans for making it more difficult than it needs to be.

And lastly, the bad news about shoes and hose: I just got an e-mail from Armlann, a wonderful period shoe company that does custom-fit items. Alas, he is backlogged, and truthfully stated that he would not be able to make any for Oct 6. At least he was honest, and didn't pull me around with empty promises as others probably would. But still a great disappointment, as his work looks good and his prices are even better, which is probably the reason why he's backordered!

I've found some black boots for Christian at various shops online; they are all the same boot so they must share the same supplier. Says leather, and they are only 60 bucks each, although they only come in whole sizes. Hopefully they will fit, because I can't think of another shoe that would work. It's not pointy or really period, but it'll work. At least if one place doesn't have it in stock, another might.

As for hose, it seems like a fruitless effort. I've given up buying any for myself, because why bother if you don't have period shoes? Saves me money anyway, I guess. I'm thinking of going in some black ballet flats because they are comfortable and weather-proof. As for Christian, I'm bidding on the last (plain black) of The Purple Unicorn's hose, as they are liquidating (like many, some even going out of business) which is so sad. Where do ren faire entertainers get their hose from then??? There's one company at TRF, but they don't have a codpiece, which I heard is really necessary since a) guys like form and function and b) it's a place where you stuff your chemise into. I never thought of that until I asked about it on MedCos, and it seems like a pretty important item.

I really don't think I'll have the time to tailor him a pair, as I do have the Period Patterns #43 hose pattern in 3 designs. I have a one-track mind, and kept thinking I HAD to make them out of linen (I guess I was stuck on that idea) but finally thought out of the box and figured I could easily get some calico solid from HL (which has a pretty good assortment of colors) and buy enough for 2 pairs, one if I mess up or have to alter, 1 to definitely have complete and tailored to perfection, and if the first comes out perfectly, then he'll just have 2 good pairs. I really don't want to have to pony up the dough for more linen and s & h, and have to wait wait wait, so cotton is a decent alternative.

I found other companies that had awesome particolored hose like SeamLyne and Moresca, but they are all out of business or don't carry them anymore.

I honestly think I've spent more time surfing the Internet for ideas and hard-to-find stuff than I have actually making the garments. How sad is that. : (

Well I better get going and quit whining. After cleaning house, I'll be a sewing fiend for the rest of the day : )

One down, many more to go!

Crunch Time has begun. I'm getting more commissioned projects than I thought I would originally and I still have to tweak a few things in my wardrobe to get things right:

Kirtle - yoke is a bit too loose at the seams - thinking of what to do about that....Also I'm deciding whether to change the lacing to zig-zag lacing or leave it as cross lacing. I just read in Renaissance magazine that cross-lacing is an American thing....wonder if this is true or not. So far the examples I found seem to support that idea, so I'll try it zig-zagged.

Chemise - I cut a bunch off in the center front and back and resewed it and it's still too big in the yoke and too small in the gussets....looks like an all-day project to me, but I'm going to leave well enough alone for now as it is a priority to get things done first, then tweak.

Hennin - I'm having problems with the veil drooping. The man-made chiffon just isn't cutting it. It's too slippery and every time I try to re-pin it, it runs like pantyhose. That was the last straw. So now I'm asking for advice on MedCos, and hopefully will come to a conclusion. So far it looks like silk organza is my best bet, since it is both crisp and thin. Second place is hankerchief linen, which I could starch.

I also have to glue more boning in the hat because the wire is making it droop too. Gravity has not been kind to this hennin!

Might make another belt for my houppelande, it seems a bit tight and makes me look top-heavy, but then it's awfully hard to cover that fact up. :-P

I'm still waiting for the garment bag and necklace...I really hope they come soon. The company who I ordered my feather fan called and said they couldn't fill my order until mid-September...I told them as long as I get it before Oct 6 everything would be fine. Still wish I wouldn't have to wait so long...

Projects I have yet to start and finish by Oct 6:

Commissions:

• man's pirate frock coat


• young lady's waistcoat (a la Elizabeth Swan)


• young lady's breeches (ditto)


• young lady's frock coat (?) (ditto)


• lady's frock coat made from extra material from the first one I made, although much simpler in design

Family:

• Christian's houppelande


• my drawers


• mom's chemise


• mom's kirtle


• mom's houppelande


• mom's hennin or some other hat

Geez, looking at this list I feel like I haven't finished even half of what I need to!

And I still have yet to finish the lapels (half done) and put the collar on the frock coat. It's almost done, though. This should be the most difficult project of the season - everything else should be relatively easy. This weekend I'll be getting the buttons and the whole thing will be finished.

I'm thinking all my finished projects will be posted on my Webshots homepage since I think I'm limited on space here and it would be easier to post pics there anyway, and other people can see them too, as my Dickens '06 album has gotten quite popular.

finishing up

I'm trying to finish up so I can concentrate on my commissioned item and also ones in the near future. I finished Christian's doublet, which came out pretty nice-looking actually.



I didn't get the lacing quite even because he was grumpy and wanted to go to bed, so the photo was taken haste. He hasn't ordered his hose yet so I had to er....crop it. Hehe

The silver-colored eyelets were actually super-easy to do. I always thought they were hard because the tool my mom used in the 80's and early 90's was extremely difficult to handle to the extent that my dad had to put them in. I got a new eyelet tool a few years ago, and I wasn't using it correctly so I was making it hard on myself for nothing. Ends up it makes the hole and punches the eyelet in - last time I used it I was making holes with a pair of scissors, then punches the eyelet in, which didn't always come out right since the holes weren't uniform.Now I'm thinking, if this is so easy, I might make a real corset for myself for Dickens this year, since that was the only real reason I was holding back from making one.

Christian's eyelets were cheap - I got all of them plus extra at HL for like $5. Of course, I wanted gold, which was more difficult to find, so I had to buy a silver and gold mix at Wal-Mart for $5 a pop, and since it was a mix, I got 3 packages just in case. With historical costuming being so popular, I don't get why stores don't offer a better variety of these things.

I ordered the fan and the necklace. Just waiting for them to come in. I'm planning on finishing the frock coat this weekend, as well as figure out the yardage for Christian's cioppa (there is a discrepency on a popular pattern review website) using some 108" wide (!) muslin I got from Wal-Mart. I also plan on putting the eyelets in my kirtle and hemming it, as well as making some drawers out of my extra linen.

I haven't spent much lately on the outfit with the exception of the fan and necklace, of course. I also got a $9 garment bag with the nacklace - it's 70" long with a 10" wide gusset! I might be able to fit everything in there!!!

So far I have recently spent:

$2 each for correct lacing (I lost the first one, and the other one wasn't what I wanted)

$9 for Christian's muslin to cut out the 3-in-1 pattern pieces, evidently what Period Patterns is notorious for

$10 for Christian's second doublet (the first one came out too small! Boo!)

$15 for my gold eyelets

$5 for Christian's silver eyelets

$39 for the fan, plus $12 for the plastic fan holder (they don't do well in rain!) plus shipping, as yet uncalculated (waiting for confirmation e-mail and invoice)

$41 for a gold, pearl, and sapphire blue glass beaded collar-style necklace

$9 for a (hopefully) awesome and long-awaited garment bag

That's all I can think of for now.

almost finished

Less than four days after I was given the fabric, and it's almost complete! Once I made the muslin prototype, it was a lot easier, although the corner seams where the pocket is were kinda tricky and had to go over them a few times.

Last night I put the black velvet boarder on. I just went to HL yesterday so I got more of the quilter's grid I needed to draft a pattern for the collar and lapels. Now I have a boatload of hand-sewing to do, as the black fabric goes all the way to the seam on the underside, so I'll have to use invisible stitching. It's turning out so lovely and because it's a reversible fabric, there is no need for lining - thank GOD because it sure is heavy enough!!!

dramatic back view of tails

Front view

Front up close

Arrr! Pirates be wantin' me services!

For the past 2 weeks I have been working on the commissioned project for a lady's pirate frock coat, which is evidently very difficult to find, and when found, very expensive.

The (honestly!) overpriced Bailey coat from Samiah (http://www.samiah.com/Samiah-Bailey-Coat.htm) really is beautiful and is the only one currently on the market on the Internet. Being over a thousand dollars, and taking sooo long to make, I figured I could make one similar yet still unique for my friend.

I used Simplicity pattern #3677, which makes a lovely frock coat, especially when contrasting lapels and boarder trim around the hem are added. I made the tails drop longer in a more dramatic way, and had to change all 3 godets so that the drape was correct, because the original just cut straight across at the hem. It was remarkably easy and just a bit time consuming. I used muslin for the prototype and my friend was ecstatic when she tried it on today, which made me VERY happy!!!

The last thing I need to do is create the lapels, which is a bit difficult since a) the shoulder seam is too far back for the front lapel to meet with it, and b) I ran out of quilter's grided interfacing, which I use to create/alter patterns. Boo. At least I have the rest of the fabric, which is GORGEOUS!!! The red and gold brocade was easy to cut (I made sure to sharpen the shears beforehand) but took about 3 hours to do. Lots of laying out, measuring. pinning, and cutting. But it will be well worth the effort.

This is the main part of the coat:

This shows the lovely contrast; the black will be the lapel, boardering trim, cuffs, and faux pockets.

The only disappointment was the velvet; it was $11 a yard and it ended up being sprayed-on crushed velvet. I really hope it holds up, because it's a lot stiffer than crushed velour, and would otherwise work well for the outfit, if it doesn't bald in the near future! (You can thank Hancock Fabrics.) Honestly, for $11 I would expect more than that. Also it's a bit sparkly and looks really nice.

Been working on this project since I'm waiting on some gold eyelets I bought on eBay about a week ago. They should be coming in an envelope, so I'm hoping they will come soon, as they aren't heavy. I ordered like 100 or more of them, thinking we'll use a lot and could probably use the rest in the future for a corset, if I'm feeling really gung-ho between Ren Faire season and Dickens. Once they come in I'll have my kirtle and Christian's doublet finished.

Between yesterday and today I worked on making my chemise smaller. I don't know how big that lady is who had the pattern online, but it came out absolutely huge. The neckline is just too low. So I had the ingenious idea (after thinking for a week or two) to make a large seam starting about 2 inches from the top and widening to about 8 at the bottom. Came out perfectly straight. Weird how I know how to do things I never did before. So happy it came out right, because linen is expensive, and I would hate to make another one with all these other projects going on.

I also finished my purse last week. Some paintings from the 14th century inspired me with the tassels, and also the fact that it's not a typical rectangular shape of a drawstring purse. It isn't much, but I hope to upgrade to another one, preferably gold. I found a fantastic place that does wonderful beadwork (http://www.mayhemltd.com/garb-pouches3.htm). It's probably not period, but then I have yet to see any 15th century purses of any kind for women - it seems the men held the money and such. Such a contrast to today's culture!

Pretty soon I will be ordering my fan (a must-have in Texas - I hope this will jinx the weather and it will be cooler than usual!) and the necklace. Depending on how much the s & h adds up to, I might get the shoes as well, since these are from individual sites that do not have anything else Christian or I need.

That's all for tonight, as it is getting very late. Tomorrow I should get the main part of the coat finished, but I probably won't get too far as I should be going to the beach with Christian.

Cool Forum

I totally forgot to mention this cool forum that I found. It gets costumers (sorted by period) together across the whole world, but basically from the U.S., Canada, and Australia. Not many have been actively posting, but maybe it's a seasonal thing, since people are on vacation - although I would think this would be the most opportune time to start making costumes for the fall. Guess many are procrastinators. It's called MedCos, I'm assuming short for Medieval Costuming. Well here it is:

http://slumberland.org/moodle/course/view.php?id=5

To join you only have to give very little personal info, unlike other online places. And the best part about it is that it's free. : )

Finishing up the hat and houp

I still have yet to make the little black velvet cap and loop that keep the hat on, but basically the hat is finished. I'm thinking of not lining it for the simple fact that I will most likely have to fix some of the beads someday (probably sooner rather than later). I have loads of thick black cotton velvet from the curtains of the 1894 Opera House (the insurance paid for new ones since there was a small fire there) and the fabric is still good, although it is certainly heavy. Probably will make a perfect cap though.

Last night I finished making the dress: the fur trim and the belt, and now I have to focus on the hat (clip the wires again because they're too long and make the cap and loop), kirtle (which basically just needs eyelets and to be hemmed), and make a neckband for the chemise.

Et voila, the dress is finished. Once the whole ensamble is complete, I'll probably get some nicer pics in the park down the street, where there are a lot of photogenic ponds and such.

Christian keeps making fun of me - he doesn't like the fur trim, even though it's fake. I got extra in case he or my mom wanted some. Looks like it'll be for mom, depending on what color of fabric I can get for cheap. I'm really hoping he'll turn around once I finish his. Maybe he's just

jealous - but hey, I don't see him making a fantastic effort to get his end of the deal together either, because I'm not paying for his too!

I also noticed that, God, I look like the evil queen off of Epic Movie. All I see is fur when I look down!!! I think breast binding is an order : ( I was going to do it anyway, but I guess these 15th century gals didn't have much back then...

It's finally coming together!

I happily handsewed for hours last night, due to the fact that an electrical storm was around for a while and did not get to go home until 10:30 for so. I used 6" wide fur for the hem and 4" wide for the sleeves. Luckily when I was at HL I picked out (subconsciously?) tapestry thread instead of regular, which was a Godsend while I was sewing the fur onto the hem of the gown because it really kept the fur secure. You can see up close little even dots where I tacked it on, but they really aren't that visible, as you can tell from the photo. I am soooo happy I invested in the $50 of fabric, since it was such a gamble, as I had no idea it would end up looking so good, as it is a color I have not seen officially in any painting or drawing, although that doesn't mean it didn't exhist. Now all I have to do is go to HL and get some light gold satin for the placket and some buckram to make the belt stiff, if it is to hold up a small purse.

The train is really longer; Mom didn't lay it out as much as it could have, although you can get a good idea of what it looks like.

Today I just sewed on the cuffs, and between the cuffs and the fur hemline, might I say it looks fantastic. I was worried about looking funny at the TRF, as I don't think many go in Burgundian fashion; most of the pics I've seen from it online were either Elizabethan or Italian 16th century Renaissance (same period, different place).

But then, if people can go in chain mail bikinis and such, I think mine can pass easily.

Ialso semi-finished the chemise. I'm really not thrilled with a drawstring construction, since it also cinches the sleeves, which are already tight. So I'm going to have to make a band and take out all the casing I made. But even as changed, it'll still look like this.

And guess what came in the mail today? The awl, corner stick, tailor's chalk, and golden points that I ordered from Denver Fabrics, a wonderful online fabric store. They sent the small package very quickly. Now I'll be able to actually make the holes for the lacing, which I am eager to do, especially for the doublet that I'm planning to sell on eBay in a month or two. This should hold me until Christian finally comes up with the money and makes up his mind about the fabric he wants for his "dress."

Beads, anyone?

I must've sewn on at least 400 of those faux pearl beads onto my hennin. But it is finally finished! Christian says I am the "Roach Queen" with the wire antennae hanging in front. OK, I can see why. On the mannequin they are kinda droopy, but on me they stay up properly. Glad it's not the oppsite way! I didn't have time to figure out how to drape the veil and how much veil I need, so I'll have to do that tomorrow. I'm afraid the chiffon is too soft, and will slip off the "antennae," even when pinned on. I guess we'll see.

After letting gravity take its final take on the sewing and fixing any loose threads, I pinned and hand-sewed the top on, which makes it look so much better. However, after doing all this, and taking weeks to do it, I really don't think anyone could possibly pay me enough to make another one without a diamond pattern already printed onto the fabric!

I was kinda disappointed that the diamonds didn't meet up in the back seam, but I think it's because it's a 3D surface and naturally would not meet, even if the diamonds were perfect. Well they're not perfect, but I think they look good enough. Usually I don't settle for less, but this time, just to keep my sanity (and to make me feel like I accomplished something!) I will use it as is.

Which reminds me of Lynn McMasters who sewed 13,000 pearls onto an Elizabethan chemise. She should be sainted: http://lynnmcmasters.com/chemise.html She should honestly make movie costumes, because I can't believe how much talent, energy, and patience she must have. If I could be half as good as her, I would feel self-fulfilled.

I also finished my chemise, which came from a super-easy rectangle-and-triangle pattern from Festive Attyre: http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html I of course had to tailor the 16th century shirt to a 15th century shirt, by greatly narrowing the sleeves. I made them rectangular first (adding 3 inches to the width and 2 to the length - next time I'd add 3) then once they were on I tried the shirt on and figured out how much I needed to narrow them by. I made it drawstring, which is kind of a mistake because the sleeves have to be drawstring too, which makes them a bit weird-feeling. If I were to make another one, I simply wouldn't have made the front and back so wide (45" each, as the pattern said) and made it fit myself better so that sewing on a band would have been easier. Also, I would make the gussets a bit bigger, perhaps 10 inches instead of 7. Plus, I wasn't sure how high or low I wanted the neckline. It didn't come out too bad though, and with a kirtle perhaps the sleeves won't be so noticeable, and I could pin them to the kirtle if I really needed to.

I totally forgot to get a picture of this, so I'll have to take one tomorrow.