The Process of Making A Bonnet

Making a bonnet isn't easy. I remember frantically looking for a reasonably priced bonnet for my first year at Dickens and getting price sticker shock when I saw them running at $100-$200 for finished or even untrimmed bonnets. After spending 12 hours on this one, I now appreciate the work that goes into it, and feel that the price is technically under what it should be, if an artisan were to get paid by the hour for the work.

Of course, this was a very detailed bonnet. The one I ended making for myself 2 years ago really was a lot easier. But still. 12 hours on a bonnet. And, a Marathon non-stop session of like 4 hours yesterday. Plus more time after a break for Thanksgiving dinner. Soooo glad it's done!

OK, so if you have absolutely no idea what goes into making a bonnet, here it is:

1. Cut out the frame from buckram, a loosely-woven cotton fabric stiffened by glue (by the manufacturer, not you).

2. Either use a hot glue gun, fabric glue, or a sewing machine (which proved too difficult to me) to attach the millinery wire (19 gauge in this case - medium sized) to the outer rims of the hat.

4. Cut out the pattern from the main fabric and lining, making sure to mark any necessary lines to guide you for placing the trim. (Use tailor's chalk, because it rubs off - don't use a water-soluable pen because the bonnet CANNOT get wet!)

5. Cut notches in the round buckram back circle so that it will fit without gaping. Attach it to the hat.

6. Do the same with the outside circle of fabric.

7. Place the outer fabric on the outside, making sure that edges are tucked under so that no raw edges show.

8. Mark with tailor's chalk (it rubs off - you DON'T want to use a water-soluable pen because this CANNOT GET WET!) where you would like to put your trim if you want it differently from the pattern (if same, then you should already have copied from the pattern after you cut it out).

9. Place the trim (in this case, black braided gimp) over the lines, pinning where needed. Be sure that the pattern is going the same way for all.

10. Handsew trim to bonnet with matching thread for invisibility. Use fray check liberally on ends to ensure that the trim will not unravel.

11. Cut 4" wide black lace per McCall's instructions. Handsew both layers into place.

12. Place wide black ribbon where desired. Handsew in place.

13. To cover the handsewing, use soutache as a bit of covering-up embellishment. Sew not like a machine, but loop the stitches sideways since it is rounded.

14. Make double bows, as in McCall's directions. Make 4 of them.

15. Cut a length of ribbon like a snake's tongue on one end and sew the other end to one side of the bonnet for tying. Repeat for the other side. Place both bows over sewing, and other two bows per McCall's instructions, towards the back of the bonnet.

16. Pin lining to inside, making notches in the circle to make it fit. Pin and sew into place or glue in place.

One more week till Dickens!!!

Yikes, time has not been my friend recently. It took 12 hours, over the course of 3 days, to finish my mom's bonnet. Came out dang nice in the end, but it better be worth it. I love the navy blue silk dupioni I got from High Fashion Fabrics - it's exactly the color I wanted (and the color that was pictured/described on eBay....grrr....)

I was so happy I got to make the pilgrimage to High Fashion Fabrics in Houston. It's about 50 miles from home, so I call it a pilgrimage. They had EVERYTHING in EVERY COLOR. Even real silk dupioni, for $15/yard (average price). They even had an extensive variety of bridal lace, among other things, which cost upwards of $120 yard! Yikes!

Even got to pet a designer wool for $350/yard. No, I didn't forget to put the decimal anywhere. $350 a yard! I'd hate to see what the whole designer sheep costs!

visit to Peggy's Victorian Corner

This was both a blessing and a disappointment. I decided my fiance and I should go to see if we could save on anything like gloves, canes, top hat, etc. since Christian has been dragging his butt about it and we have less than 2 weeks to get his outfit together.



Well we found some good stuff at some really good prices, with the exception of the hat, but it is nice and we had problems fitting him for one so maybe it is good we didn't order him one online. He was thrilled with what she had, interestingly enough retired tuxedos from rental shops. He got a really nice black morning jacket with tails, as well as a blue vest and cravat, felt top hat, and cane.


Good place to get accessories, most for decent prices. However, I wasn't too thrilled with her "I don't do computers" attitude and also her cool reception. Not as friendly and outgoing as I always thought she would be, as I have looked forward to meeting her for years. She didn't seem to want to talk to me at all. I always enjoy meeting other costumers, so this was a surprise and great disappointment to me. :-(

Progress on Mom's blouse, dress

Weird way of constructing, and it's probably not period but it'll have to do. Not thrilled with the blouse pattern but the coat is turning out nice. I don't use zippers, and I didn't leave enough room for buttons after enlargening the pattern, so it looks like hooks and eyes are a must. Wish I could find some hook and eye tape for cheap. Found one on eBay but I'm running out of time, and Thanksgiving will slow down mail. Really like the lace and ribbon on the front, it came out nice and straight. Now I have to look for some lace for the sleeves, which adds a bit more detail for the outfit.

Got the 10(!) yards of navy wool twill, which is the same I used for Christian's medieval houp. It hangs well, isn't itchy, is a medium-weight, and costs less than $10 a yard!! I highly recommend Safa Fabric store on eBay, as the owner is very accomodating especially for large yardages. Looks like tomorrow I will be laying out the pattern and cutting it out - finally - 2 weeks before the Dickens festival!

color blind ebayers

I hate color blind ebayers. I ordered "twilight blue/black" silk dupioni, and I ended up getting purple by mistake. Then they sent me the "right" color for free, which ended up being a bright cerulean blue. Grrrrr....now I'm at a loss of what to use for my mom's bonnet, and the weeks left aren't getting any longer. Luckily I have a good friend who actually wants to go all over Creation (i.e. Houston metro area) to find some fabric she's looking for, so I'm gonna tag along with her next week as a shopping buddy.

I don't expect a perfect match, but a cerulean bright blue just doesn't go with navy. Hope everything turns out ok, because I am sooo excited about making this bonnet, because I love using hot glue guns! (Yes very period, right? Hey no one will know but me, my mom, and anyone who reads this - which probably won't be too many people!)

Looking....

Some of these trims are hard to find. Went to HL today and found only 2 types of black lace (no double edged - boo) and NO BLACK POLYESTER TAFFETA. This is what I HATE about Hobby Lobby. The have a huge floral dept that covers an equivalent of 2-3, and now the fabric department is not what is used to be, even though whenever I complain via e-mail they just BS me about it....grrr....they used to be my main supplier, but not so much anymore....bad enough I have to cough up $80 with shipping for 10 yards of navy wool on eBay...so it looks like eBay is my best friend now. Also looks like I might have to resort to going to Jo-Ann's.

Spent so far at HL and Wal-Mart:

10 yards of silky black ribbon - $2.50
2 spools (2 yards total) of 2" wide double edged eyelet lace - $5
10 yards of black gimp/flexible braid (all they had) - $4.40 @ 44 cents a yard!!!
black soutache (unknown amount) - $1.60 per roll, as is
white bias tape - $1.40

Also bought on eBay:

1 yard black/navy silk dupioni - $10 with shipping