Tudor gown

I haven't written in a dog's age! I'll admit, it's because I've been so busy with work lately, being a teacher and all. Secondly, I'll admit I have become quite addicted to WoW and I still have yet to make 80....but that's besides the point...

Now that school is slowing down, summer's coming up, and having OD'd on WoW, I need a new project! I wanted something Tudor since TRF takes place during that period, but I'm waaaay too big on top to fit in a French gown. I also want to create a faux pas by not wearing corset, since TRF season is often hot and sunny. There's not a whole lot of shade there, especially where you go to watch shows, and I just know I'd be walking out with a sunburn the shape of the square neckline!

I've gone through the patterns I have and figured out what patterns I needed and went to Hancock and Jo-Ann fabrics. Neither of which had buckrum or boning for the farthingale, much to my bitter disappointment. (The both do regulary carry buckram and one does carry the boning I needed but of COURSE they were out.) I'm really tired of fabric stores not having what I need. I really wonder how much business they lose to the Internet.

The pattern I chose is Simplicity 3782, View B for the gown. I did a little bit of research online and it does correspond to a lot of real gowns from period paintings. The only thing is that it buttons in the front with jewelled buttons, which isn't quite historically accurate. But then if you take a look at people at TRF, it really doesn't matter! I'm still trying to figure out the exact name of this type of gown, though. For some reason I keep finding the name "French gown" but whenever I find a picture of what I want, there's no description or name. Weird.

The photos above are of Lady Jane Grey and Queen Mary I. I noticed that the drawing has tighter sleeves, unlike the other puffy long ones. I figure this was during a mini ice age, and I live in Texas, so why can't I take a little liberty so I don't die from heat exhaustion???

I got some *cotton* velvet off eBay, 7 yards for $75! (Plus shipping.) I decided cotton would be necessary since poly is hot and my cape got discolored at the dry cleaner. I can't afford this one to get discolored! I also found out cotton velvet is washable so that means it's cheaper to take care of, too. I'll just have to dry-clean the skirt. (Haven't bought the fabric for the center front part but I'm thinking of a gold/ivory brocade vestment material, but I haven't find a final decision. I think it would really make it look stunning though. I'm just trying not to go over-the-top. Kinda hard on a budget.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380214661129&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Renaissancefabrics is always a good eBay seller. He always has plenty to choose from.

I also decided what to do about the trim. I found a beautiful gold metallic trim from Hancock's that is not your traditional gimp. It has leafy-shaped trim going one way then the other, and I think it would be perfect to place little pearls in each unit. I'll have to get a photo of it later.

I had to resort to ordering patterns online from Period Patterns: #52 - Tudor Headddresses (there's one that is wearing my type of gown at the bottom) and #93 - Bags and Pouches. I figured they'd come in handy and could be used many times. I just hope they're worth it. They are VERY expensive patterns. I need a new bag/purse anyway.

I have been quite indecisive lately about what to do with the farthingale. No one really sells them and the ones on eBay are crappy. I really want the cone look and don't want to use my Victorian one. I finally decided on one from Realm Collections and it cost me about $100 with shipping. I figured between all the places I went to (in person and online) it would probably cost that in all the supplies I'd have to get. Sadly, it seems much more economical to buy bulk and make a bunch of farthingales and sell them than it is to make one. Since I'm not a big fan of using hardware tools, and I don't have the big bucks to make a bunch to sell, I figured this was the best option. The way I look at it is, I save loads by making all the other stuff myself. It won't kill me to give a little bit of business to someone else. Plus, it's a basic foundation garment, and if it's any good, I will be able to use it many, many times.

http://www.realmcollections.com/bone-hoop-skirt.html

The fact that it's machine washable and travel-friendly is what did me in. I think it also looks period accurate too, unlike a lot of others online.

However, I am making the chemise myself. I am using Simplicity 2621. I had a load of muslin already, so I didn't have to buy any. :-D

Lastly, I'm going to have to look for a bit of jewelry. Since I have a very short upper chest, I'm thinking maybe a choker and a beaded girdle. I just hope the beads don't cost too much or I can find one for a reasonable price. I also have to research earrings and rings.

Costume Problems

I sewed those buttons onto those kid's dresses 5 times each AND used tapestry thread and they still lost a few. I was thinking on bringing some extras but I second-guessed myself and said it should be fine. :-P

Not sure how else to better sew buttons on. Richard never complained that anything fell off his coat or vest, but maybe I should ask and see if it was just a fluke, because of the kid's activity or picking, or because I need to sew them on more than 5 times.

I also had the problem of having to wear long underwear under my gown. Wearing the extra shirt was fine, although I could not wear my chemise with it because it didn't work. Plus, I couldn't wear the pantalets because of the warm pants and tights I had to wear. I also wore some thick white knee socks ($2 at Wal-Mart!!!) and I was still cold. The skirt also tried slipping down a lot because I made it a bit too big as I wasn't sure what number of layers I could have to fit under it. I'm going to have to make it a bit smaller.

The dang white ribbon from my bustle kept poking out for some reason - something that was not an issue last year with either gown. I think I'm going to cut it and if it looks like it's going to do it again, I'm going to have to put the whole petticoat over it and the hoops in the back will have to deal with the higher hemline.

Wish I could find a pattern for a REAL blouse, not a faux dickey. I hate dickies and false sleeves. All they do is create problems.

So maybe my goals for next year will be:

1. Create warm cloaks and muffs that can be worn at TRF or Dickens for the whole family (except for Mom who already has a wool paletot.) Christian will probably need separate ones due to the change in men's cloak styles but I think girls' and women's are pretty much interchangeable.

2. Maybe look for a real fur muff (antique, not new) online like the one the nice lady at the costume competition let me try on. It was so damn warm I could swear she was keeping some of those heating packets in there!

3. Make a thick underpetticoat for myself. The same lady said layers of tulle would be a great insulator between the hoop and my legs. I personally hate tulle because it's scratchy, but if I'm careful and sew in a thick enough liner, then it should work.

4. Get something together for Jenny and Mike (the little girls' parents)

I think that's about it, except for the goal Christian set for me due to the fact that it seems like every year it's a bustle that wins: Spend all year on the BEST BUSTLE EVER. I really hate bustles, and they don't go with Dickens as he died by 1870. If anything, I'd go 1840's. I also can't spend all year on a single garment as I have client work to do and warm clothes to make. But I'll think about it.

Dickens on the Strand Costume Contest - We won!!!

I don't think it quite set in yet - The girls and I won 3rd place in the ladies' compeition and my husband won 2nd in the men's. It sure was competitive this year, as always. There were about 30-35 women and over 15 men.

I've gone into the contest a few times over the 5 years I've gone to Dickens in costume. Last year my matron of honor made the cut but I didn't. For suffering all that great embarrassment, I think I've earned the privilege and honor of not only making the cut this year but winning 3rd!

Christian, who is usually a very soft-spoken kind of guy, really did well in the competition. He made to sure note his pocket watch from the 1870's (his wedding gift I bought from Somewhere in Time antique store on the Strand a week before Ike!) and his hand-embroidered handkerchief that I made him for the wedding, too. Glad I made it in Christmas green and metallic gold because I could see it all the way from the audience.

It's kind of funny because the lady who was in charge of it was rude to me when I came to check in. She said that the focus would be on me, not the girls, as girls cannot actually compete alone (Yeah whatever - I saw the others go on stage alone.) Because I was forced to go up competing with them, we pushed it over the top for sure. I felt bad when somone yelled out "That's not fair!" after the MC said "Cuteness counts in America," because there IS no competition for families or children. It's not my fault. I really wish they'd bring back the family competition, because it would make things more fair. I also think there should be a few catagories, such as Best Day Dress, Best Ball Gown, Best Bustle, and maybe even most creative costume (like the guy who made an effort to get everything at Goodwill stores and the like and still looked good). They probably don't do this due to a lack of prizes, but honestly, who CARES about prizes??? People want the bragging rights, not a prize! (Although a $100 Landry's gift card does sound good right about now. Hehe!) I think a certificate would be a very nice addition to the prizes, as that would be a nice thing to frame and hang next to my wedding certificate from the Queen and my wedding pictures on my mom's living room walls. :)

I probably should've talked about my hair and the hand-embroidered hankerchief I was wearing. I got so nervous I forgot. I even had my handkerchief out to remind me but I forgot anyway. I wasn't mentally prepared for it, although due to my talent of improvising, we all curtsied to the Queen and the other judges (this wasn't planned! Honest!)

The girls, my cousins, were WONDERFUL and followed my direction to the letter, and since I can't share my winnings with them (a Dickens T-shirt) I'm planning on treating them out today to some chocolate at La King's Confectionary on The Strand.

The kids were also great during the carriage ride. We had a better carriage than last year, and better decorated too, I think. Sid from Island Carriage charged us $200 as his standard fee, but for some reason we got a driver and carriage from Seahorse Carriages, who I believe usually charge a lot more. We really lucked out this year, except for the cold. The kids were awesome and rarely complained - they had never been in a carriage so they were pretty excited.

Another stroke of rare luck happened today - My dad and I coordinated it so we would be parking around the same time. (He was coming from a hotel in Galveston and the rest of us from Texas City.) My mom noticed a car that looked like his rental right in front of us at the Opera House parking lot, and lo and behold, it was him! We also had great timing when it came to meeting up with the Reids, as we found them right away over my Mo Betta's. We also got to catch up with Tony from Morgan Costume Studios. We didn't see everybody that day, like the two couples me met at TRF and Marita Beth and her husband. I sure hope they made it there because they always make such an effort on their costumes.

That's it for now. I hope the weather will clear up today, as it is currently raining in Galveston.

:( I have my TRF water-resistant parasol I plan on bringing today as long as it's not raining buckets all day but I don't think it's supposed to.

Dickens on the Strand this weekend!!!

I'm excited not just because I'm a professional costumer or that this is my first anniversary, but my dad decided he had so much fun at Dickens last year that he's coming again this year! I rented him a Victorian suit (slacks, white shirt, cravat, dress jacket, and vest) from Morgan Costume Studios. He doesn't have a website, but I do recommend him if you have an out-of-towner coming or you just don't have a costume yet.

However, if he comes next year, I'm thinking of just outright getting him a costume since I spent $80 last year and $80 this year on them so far. I could've gotten a few costume pieces for that kind of money! But I didn't know he was coming again until late in the fall, so I couldn't. I did however get him gloves from Somewhere in Time, a wonderful antique store on The Strand past Hendley's Market. I also got Christian a cravat there because I was too busy to make one! I had to resort to buying a top hat for my dad since Morgan didn't have any good ones left, so I found a pretty good one on eBay that I would highly recommend. His user name is Hatstu.

I've been very busy lately trying to finish my new gown. I used Simplicity 3855. I had to tailor it down quite a bit since the sizes ran so big. I didn't get to finish the trim on the upper sleeve seam so I'll have to do that for next year. I used taffeta for both the main part and the trim. It's kind of difficult to find a fancy fabric that doesn't shred so I'm not a big fan how the trim came out, even with the edges pinking-sheared. In all, I wasn't too thrilled with the construction of the gown as it is lined AND faced (weird!!!) and the dress was originally designed for 5 panels, with 1 skinny one in the front . I ended up using the pattern I used for my wedding dress and the Sunday dress from last year. I do like the style even though the construction design wasn't the best idea. I think it should last a long time since the front goes into a V and it has a little give in the chest area. I'm aiming at costumes that will last a while so I won't have to make any more for next year unless it's for someone else who doesn't have one yet.

By the way, I bought the iridescent purple/black taffeta on eBay from paylessfabric. I've gotten fabric from him before and he is awesome!!! I bought it at the *best* price I could find around here and online for $5.99/yard.

My School's Fall Bazaar Theme: Pirates!!!

Got dragged into the whole pirate thing this year. I'm such a girly-girl that this idea is completely alien to me. I don't mind making stuff for other people - they look good in pirate stuff - but I feel weird in it. Probably doesn't help that I'm a 34G. I know that I just can't pass for a guy no matter how much I try.

Anyway, I decided between teaching and finishing up these costumes, I would *shudder* BUY a pirate shirt rather than make it. Big mistake. I ordered a "swordswoman's shirt" from By the Sword, Inc. Since I'm kinda big on top, I ordered a woman's XL. Another big mistake. Usually I HAVE to wear XL, but I'm swimming - no, DROWNING - in this shirt. The worst part is that they claim that the cuffs are designed with a woman in mind. Maybe a 600 lb woman??? The cuffs are 11" around! My wrists are like HALF that!

On the flip side, I only have to wear it twice, once for the bazaar and once for Halloween at school. Then, I can give it to my husband and he can wear it to TRF, since I would estimate it's more like a man's size L-XL rather than a woman's.

Planning on going to TRF on Halloween weekend. I'm hoping Christian will pick out a costume for himself, preferably a musketeer since he has the sword and shirt already and the good looks. Hehe!

Anyway, I'm using some black capris/pants (depending on weather) that I already had, plus a single necklace from Wal-Mart that has 7-in-one (about $7) and a set of different-sized hoops at Wal-mart ($5) as well as thin black and red scarves for $5 each at Wal-Mart. The socks I might wear if it's chilly - they are the same pair I got for Mrs. Lovett at Hot Topic.

Anything to keep the school going and impress the kiddos, I guess...

Victorian Girl's dresses c. 1860

I finished two out of the three dresses so far. I just need to put buttonholes on the other two.

The girls were able to try on the finished ones while the third had to try on a muslin mock-up of her bodice as I had to enlarge it and tailor it to her.

I was quite disappointed how long they turned out, as I thought the tulle would make the dress stick out more like the picture on the pattern. I guess the taffeta weighs it down. So much for engineering...

I'm not a big fan of the pattern - the skirt lengths run rediculously long for their size. I had to measure and cut where I planned to, which didn't correlate with their regular size AT ALL.

Overall though, they are very cute and the bodices really flatter their natural shape and the dark colors flatter their skin color.

Stangely enough, I hope they all grow an inch taller by December! (However, I suppose too long is better than too short, right? I've seen too short and it looks worse!!!)

Mrs. Lovett is ready to go!

Well, fall is in full swing and I'm trying to finish up projects so I can enjoy goings-on like Boo on the Boardwalk, TRF, Dickens, and of course my school's Fall Bazaar.

I finished a lot of stuff over the summer but just never felt like writing since my aunt died.

I decided to use red bias tape to accent the dark black ruffles, and I think it makes it much more striking and gothic. I'm actually surprised how well it turned out, how easy it was to make, and how it (surprisingly big time!) fits me. And one of my husband's friends said I couldn't pull it off....

Hoping to go to Boo on the Boardwalk in Kemah this weekend. Still not sure about the make-up idea though, and never found a plastic roach to accompany me either....Halloween really sucks here in Texas. No stores have any cool accessories this year.