Costume Problems

I sewed those buttons onto those kid's dresses 5 times each AND used tapestry thread and they still lost a few. I was thinking on bringing some extras but I second-guessed myself and said it should be fine. :-P

Not sure how else to better sew buttons on. Richard never complained that anything fell off his coat or vest, but maybe I should ask and see if it was just a fluke, because of the kid's activity or picking, or because I need to sew them on more than 5 times.

I also had the problem of having to wear long underwear under my gown. Wearing the extra shirt was fine, although I could not wear my chemise with it because it didn't work. Plus, I couldn't wear the pantalets because of the warm pants and tights I had to wear. I also wore some thick white knee socks ($2 at Wal-Mart!!!) and I was still cold. The skirt also tried slipping down a lot because I made it a bit too big as I wasn't sure what number of layers I could have to fit under it. I'm going to have to make it a bit smaller.

The dang white ribbon from my bustle kept poking out for some reason - something that was not an issue last year with either gown. I think I'm going to cut it and if it looks like it's going to do it again, I'm going to have to put the whole petticoat over it and the hoops in the back will have to deal with the higher hemline.

Wish I could find a pattern for a REAL blouse, not a faux dickey. I hate dickies and false sleeves. All they do is create problems.

So maybe my goals for next year will be:

1. Create warm cloaks and muffs that can be worn at TRF or Dickens for the whole family (except for Mom who already has a wool paletot.) Christian will probably need separate ones due to the change in men's cloak styles but I think girls' and women's are pretty much interchangeable.

2. Maybe look for a real fur muff (antique, not new) online like the one the nice lady at the costume competition let me try on. It was so damn warm I could swear she was keeping some of those heating packets in there!

3. Make a thick underpetticoat for myself. The same lady said layers of tulle would be a great insulator between the hoop and my legs. I personally hate tulle because it's scratchy, but if I'm careful and sew in a thick enough liner, then it should work.

4. Get something together for Jenny and Mike (the little girls' parents)

I think that's about it, except for the goal Christian set for me due to the fact that it seems like every year it's a bustle that wins: Spend all year on the BEST BUSTLE EVER. I really hate bustles, and they don't go with Dickens as he died by 1870. If anything, I'd go 1840's. I also can't spend all year on a single garment as I have client work to do and warm clothes to make. But I'll think about it.

Victorian Girl's dresses c. 1860

I finished two out of the three dresses so far. I just need to put buttonholes on the other two.

The girls were able to try on the finished ones while the third had to try on a muslin mock-up of her bodice as I had to enlarge it and tailor it to her.

I was quite disappointed how long they turned out, as I thought the tulle would make the dress stick out more like the picture on the pattern. I guess the taffeta weighs it down. So much for engineering...

I'm not a big fan of the pattern - the skirt lengths run rediculously long for their size. I had to measure and cut where I planned to, which didn't correlate with their regular size AT ALL.

Overall though, they are very cute and the bodices really flatter their natural shape and the dark colors flatter their skin color.

Stangely enough, I hope they all grow an inch taller by December! (However, I suppose too long is better than too short, right? I've seen too short and it looks worse!!!)

Three Dresses for Three Perfect Little Ladies

Since Ike and my first year teaching got in the way of making these last year, I finally decided summer to be a great time for a large, fun project. I decided to make my three cousins true-to-the-period Victorian dresses using McCall's 5131.

The pattern suggests to use cotton, but I decided it would look best in taffeta, since it was designed with all that fancy trim that would have been expensive back then. That way, they would match me and my husband in class.

When I went to NYC last summer, I had gotten cranberry and green taffeta, thinking my nieces would be in my wedding. (Didn't happen for a number of reasons.) So all I need is a third color (navy blue?) for the third. I've been looking on eBay lately but not much luck.

I've already finished the undergarments for Paris, including a chemise, pantalettes, and petticoat. I'm tempted to lace up the pantalettes to make them all frilly, since I have so much left over from the wedding, but I think I need to finish the rest of the outfit to see if that would be going overboard. Sure would look cute, though.

The underwear has been super-easy to make. It's the dress that has been the source of my upset lately. I started cutting the cranberry thinking if I messed up, I can always get more (yeah for $7.99/yd at HL!!!) Well, I didn't think of how the dress was made with 2 tiers, and I didn't notice that I had to cut 4 of the same pattern, 2 on the shorter line and 2 on the longer line. It's very confusing, since there are so many cutting and shortening lines I ended up cutting 4 shorter overskirts instead of 2. Looks like I'm going to have to go to HL soon...

I finally found the key to working with gimp trim. I remember having an awful time with it when I was making my first Dickens dress. You start out sideways, going frontways and back again until it's good and secure at the end. Then you go back into the middle and turn lengthwise. It's easier than using that clear anti-fray stuff because you don't have to wait for it to dry.

My Wedding on YouTube

I tried editing my wedding but the saved result ended up in a file unknown to YouTube. Here it is unedited:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHFnc_47rfo&feature=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrQwO5bI1gc&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL2P-gE6Edg&feature=channel

Sunday gown

Yes, I'm crazy, but I grew out of my regular Dickens outfit, so I really need to make a new one that fits the bust better.

I chose the 1857 Wisconsin Governor's Wife pattern because I have never really explored plaids, as plaids aren't really in style today. I found a wonderful green and black plaid taffeta on eBay at a great price. I started on the skirt panels last night and it is sooo much lighter than my wedding gown!!!

It was extremely difficult to find a feminine pattern without it screaming out "lumberjack." It was also hard to find one that wasn't too big of a plaid. I'm only 5'1" and many prints easily dwarf me.

I'll publish photos as soon as this project gets underway. I'm hoping this won't be too popular of a pattern, and at least it is very easy to change up. (My wedding gown is from the same pattern!)

Look Ma, No Bra!

I finally figured out how to fix my corset so that I don't have to wear a bra with it. It's definitely hard being a 34G, and support is my #1 priority. However, back in December, I was rushed because the corset kit took so long to ship, and I only had a week in which to make it. Now that I have a lot more free time this summer, I decided I had to tackle that project again and make sure it was done right and better (live and learn....right?)

I had to fold the four gussets into a kind of pleat so that they barely existed - and these were a size DD! (OK...I've never in my whole life had a bra/corset be too big!!!) So back then, I thought this would run small at worst. Ends up it was waaaaay too big. Not only that, but the spiral steel boning that came in the kit were 1. too flexible and 2. too long. I wasn't able to completely sew on the edging tape, which was part of the kit and of which I ran out in that week before Dickens!!! I ended up ordering some hard plastic boning from the same place, Laci's, and it worked out well for the most part after having measured each casing myself and giving a 1/4" clearance on each end for the edging tape.

Here are some pics, but they don't show the finished project. Last night when I tried everything on, my fiance and I came across a new problem: the busk wasn't strong enough. I don't have time to order a stronger one (if they even come in stronger) plus I don't have time to rip it all apart. It kept sticking out and not laying flat - a problem I've seen on Tudor gowns worn by busty ladies at TRF. Christian had the absolutely brilliant idea of using aluminum flat bar (1/8" thick, 1/2" wide, and 13 inches long) which we bought for like $3.50 at Lowe's. He cut the long bar into what I needed and quickly filed the pointy corners down. Works perfectly now. I don't think I've ever had such a period silouette before.

I'm thinking on covering up the hand-stitching on the wedging tape with some white double-sided lace, since the machine just couldn't catch it all the time and the ordeal became very frustrating. I think I'll have to use 3/4" - 1" wide tape instead of 1/2" wide. Still looks good though, and is EXTREMELY strong now. I loved wearing it this morning, because it just felt so supportive, especially in the back. I guess I'm one of those few women who can still smile and feel good while wearing a corset!

Wedding dress material and lace; solution to the tiny pleat problem

I've been picking up random stuff whenever I find a good bargain (as weddings can be OUTRAGEOUSLY pricey!) so I have been very lucky lately to find things such as these:

14 yards of quality "rustle-y" bridal taffeta, 40% off at HL.....$62...originally $8 a yard/$104 (with 1 free because of defects)

20 yards of 6" wide lace for $13 (with shipping!)


20 yards of 3" wide white eyelet lace on eBay for $8 (with shipping!) (for pantalets)


8 yards of 1" wide eyelet beading for $1.27/yd at HL....$10.16 (for pantalets)


3 yards of small lace for .99/yd at HL....$3 (for chemise)

5 yards of sheer white batiste at HL for $1.67/yd....$8.35 (for chemise, pantalets, and petticoat...all that was on the bolt, need more)

2 packages of 1/2" wide twill tape....about $3.50

Hardest thing to find is 14" wide eyelet lace for the flouncing on the petticoat...last time I made one from that pattern I had to resort to just a plain batiste ruffle, but since this is my wedding and I WILL be using the undergarments in years to come....I'm not letting this one go.

Looked on eBay and it looks like the cheapest runs at $2 a yard, as Wal-Mart wants $4, and I need like 7 yards, so that adds up quite a bit just for one thing.

Also looking for light blue or country blue ribbon that fits the eyelet beading but no luck yet.

Also keeping my eye out for Venician lace on sale, need 2 yards for the hem of the chemise - might as well go all out.

And, since they didn't have enough batiste, I'm probably going to need another 10 yards or so.

Finally, I think I found the solution to the tiny pleat problem. Plisse pleats will not work on non-silk, so I found a tool called Clothilde's Perfect Pleater that should do the job for about $30-35 and says it is permanent. Hope it works, because I would much rather have the pleats than the ruffles or pleat by hand!