Three Dresses for Three Perfect Little Ladies

Since Ike and my first year teaching got in the way of making these last year, I finally decided summer to be a great time for a large, fun project. I decided to make my three cousins true-to-the-period Victorian dresses using McCall's 5131.

The pattern suggests to use cotton, but I decided it would look best in taffeta, since it was designed with all that fancy trim that would have been expensive back then. That way, they would match me and my husband in class.

When I went to NYC last summer, I had gotten cranberry and green taffeta, thinking my nieces would be in my wedding. (Didn't happen for a number of reasons.) So all I need is a third color (navy blue?) for the third. I've been looking on eBay lately but not much luck.

I've already finished the undergarments for Paris, including a chemise, pantalettes, and petticoat. I'm tempted to lace up the pantalettes to make them all frilly, since I have so much left over from the wedding, but I think I need to finish the rest of the outfit to see if that would be going overboard. Sure would look cute, though.

The underwear has been super-easy to make. It's the dress that has been the source of my upset lately. I started cutting the cranberry thinking if I messed up, I can always get more (yeah for $7.99/yd at HL!!!) Well, I didn't think of how the dress was made with 2 tiers, and I didn't notice that I had to cut 4 of the same pattern, 2 on the shorter line and 2 on the longer line. It's very confusing, since there are so many cutting and shortening lines I ended up cutting 4 shorter overskirts instead of 2. Looks like I'm going to have to go to HL soon...

I finally found the key to working with gimp trim. I remember having an awful time with it when I was making my first Dickens dress. You start out sideways, going frontways and back again until it's good and secure at the end. Then you go back into the middle and turn lengthwise. It's easier than using that clear anti-fray stuff because you don't have to wait for it to dry.

Photos and video!!!

I finally sifted through all the photos my dad took and a lot of them turned out blue because of the contrast between shade and the bright sun. I had to edit almost all of them, and only the actual wedding photos are ready and online. You can view them on Webshots:

http://travel.webshots.com/album/569199722mEBMeb

I also found myself on the Austin news online. Don't blink!

http://www.news8austin.com/shared/video/video_pop.asp?destlist=59435

Sunday gown

Yes, I'm crazy, but I grew out of my regular Dickens outfit, so I really need to make a new one that fits the bust better.

I chose the 1857 Wisconsin Governor's Wife pattern because I have never really explored plaids, as plaids aren't really in style today. I found a wonderful green and black plaid taffeta on eBay at a great price. I started on the skirt panels last night and it is sooo much lighter than my wedding gown!!!

It was extremely difficult to find a feminine pattern without it screaming out "lumberjack." It was also hard to find one that wasn't too big of a plaid. I'm only 5'1" and many prints easily dwarf me.

I'll publish photos as soon as this project gets underway. I'm hoping this won't be too popular of a pattern, and at least it is very easy to change up. (My wedding gown is from the same pattern!)

less than 2 weeks till the wedding!!!

I'm just finishing up the gown today. This has taken more work than I had thought, as work has been getting in the way of everything these days. Thank God I have this whole week off for Thanksgiving!

Yesterday I finished putting all 7 alternating layers of lace and silk chiffon! All I have to do is replace the silk chiffon that goes over the shoulder because it must've slipped in the machine out of place and it needs to hang over the top of the lace on the sleeve to make things right.

I tried everything on last Sunday and I think it looks even bigger on me than on my dress mannequin! (Could be because it sits in a corner.)

I bought the tussy mussy on eBay and got one for my matron of honor too. I got them both engraved. They are a bit awkward to handle, though, because they are top-heavy, of course. Because Island Flowers is still not doing business, I made the bouquet for myself and a posy for Cathy for only $30!

When sunnier weather comes (hopefully before the wedding) I hope to go to Bay Street Park and take pictures in the gazebo for better lighting and background.

Feels good to have to change my new serger's color from white to black. I'm soooo sick of white! I'm honestly surprised I didn't get the gown stained up more than I did. (I just had to dry-clean it once without the ruffles because the center fold of the fabric came dirty from the store.) I'm just worried how much this is going to take to dry-clean.

I think this should get people's attention at Dickens on the Strand.

Unmentionables

Well, let's mention them anyway, shall we?

So far I have made/re-made and completed:

1 chemise (ball gown cut)
2 pairs of crotchless pantalettes (how else do you think we ladies could go to the bathroom?!?)
1 pintuck petticoat

Now I need to focus on:

decorating the corset
finishing up making the everyday-cut chemise, and perhaps make one more if I like it

After that I should have all the undergarments made except for those bought. I actually bought a custom-made cage crinoline from alliestrunk on eBay for $150. I figured it would be worth it considering it'll be shorter than the crappy modern bridal one I have now and it'll be stronger against the wind and not trip me when it flattens out in the wind. I decided I just can't afford to have my special day ruined just because I was too cheap to buy it, especially at that reasonable of a price. Also I think it'll be great to brag about during the family costume competition!

But, I can at least write this off in my mind as an investment, as I hope to join a reinactment group sometime, and go to period balls all around in Texas. It's something I can always use again and again, unlike modern bridal stuff. The only part of my whole outfit that really won't be worn again is the actual wedding gown - the rest is completely reusable, so I don't feel so guilty about splurging.

However, I've had trouble with shoes. I really, really, really was hoping to buy some white kid leather/imitation button-up boots, but none can be found except for an exhorbitant amount in the UK. Also can't really find any lace-up ones without being satin, as I know satin won't wear as well on the street as leather, and will get all dusty and nasty.

On the brighter side, I did find a pair of leather sturdy ballet flats with soft suede soles which I will use for dancing at my ball. They're only $30, so I can't argue with that. I plan on embellishing them with bridal appliques or lace or something pretty. Here's the link: http://www.dyeableshoestore.com/dyeable-shoe-store/shoes-by-width/ballet-180.asp

If I can't find any good boots, I think I'll have to have a stronger type of slipper, with a better sole for outdoors: http://www.bridalpeople.com/wedding-flats/13609.asp

I'm also thinking of investing in some luxurious white silk stockings. It's my wedding day, and I want to be as comfortable as possible. With Texas weather, you never know whether it'll be hot or cold - and silk takes care of both. Plus, the silk is so thin that it won't make my feet any wider than they already are, so my shoes will fit better. Here are some places I've found online - all are imports from France (something else I can brag about in the competition!)

about $50 US from Britain
http://www.delicates.co.uk/Champs-Elysees-Silk-Stockings-By-Cervin-2061524E0F.aspx

$55
http://stockingirl.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=miccina&Product_Code=SGSS2&Category_Code=catS&Product_Count=12

$59
http://www.stockingstore.com/genuine-silk-stockings-p/cv900.htm

Now that I compared them, I'm thinking of going with the $55 ones since it's in US dollars and shipping theoretically shouldn't kill me. I guess I'll have to wait on this one, though.

$60
http://stockingirl.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=STH101&Category_Code=CatT&Store_Code=miccina

Wedding dress material and lace; solution to the tiny pleat problem

I've been picking up random stuff whenever I find a good bargain (as weddings can be OUTRAGEOUSLY pricey!) so I have been very lucky lately to find things such as these:

14 yards of quality "rustle-y" bridal taffeta, 40% off at HL.....$62...originally $8 a yard/$104 (with 1 free because of defects)

20 yards of 6" wide lace for $13 (with shipping!)


20 yards of 3" wide white eyelet lace on eBay for $8 (with shipping!) (for pantalets)


8 yards of 1" wide eyelet beading for $1.27/yd at HL....$10.16 (for pantalets)


3 yards of small lace for .99/yd at HL....$3 (for chemise)

5 yards of sheer white batiste at HL for $1.67/yd....$8.35 (for chemise, pantalets, and petticoat...all that was on the bolt, need more)

2 packages of 1/2" wide twill tape....about $3.50

Hardest thing to find is 14" wide eyelet lace for the flouncing on the petticoat...last time I made one from that pattern I had to resort to just a plain batiste ruffle, but since this is my wedding and I WILL be using the undergarments in years to come....I'm not letting this one go.

Looked on eBay and it looks like the cheapest runs at $2 a yard, as Wal-Mart wants $4, and I need like 7 yards, so that adds up quite a bit just for one thing.

Also looking for light blue or country blue ribbon that fits the eyelet beading but no luck yet.

Also keeping my eye out for Venician lace on sale, need 2 yards for the hem of the chemise - might as well go all out.

And, since they didn't have enough batiste, I'm probably going to need another 10 yards or so.

Finally, I think I found the solution to the tiny pleat problem. Plisse pleats will not work on non-silk, so I found a tool called Clothilde's Perfect Pleater that should do the job for about $30-35 and says it is permanent. Hope it works, because I would much rather have the pleats than the ruffles or pleat by hand!

Making my own Victorian wedding veil

I decided to definitely opt out of paying rediculous prices on wedding veils, and ended up buying 5 yards of 108" wide white illusion/tulle for only $13! (Would've been cheaper if HL carried it, but they only had 54, and I'm not sure if that's wide enough!)

So, with the $2 or so I spent on the baggie of plastic hair combs from HL, that leaves me with a grand total of $15!

I've been looking at other fashion plates, and have decided to keep the veil raw edged (as it seems almost completely see-through at the edges) and a hem would most cerrtainly ruin this effect. I also noticed that the fancier the dress, the more ornate the crown and the less ornate the veil. Here are some examples:

Bridal crown from Godey's Ladies' Book December 1860

Godey's April 1861

Godey's January 1856

Godey's 1861

Godey's 1861 (same fashhion plate as above)